Eagle Glacier

A few years ago, we tried this trail on a hot, hot day in June. About two miles in, Mr. X broke his toe and there went our summer. This time, we made sure Mr. X had proper footwear and we were off.

Actually, we didn't start until about 2 pm and since we knew we had at least 10 miles round trip, we were in a bit of a hurry. We quickly passed the wide flat trail near the highway and headed into the rooty, rocky, windfall laden trail on the edge of the Eagle glacier river.

We spotted woodpeckers and just the tips of devil's club.

We crossed the river and many streams and were amazed to find elaborate planking covered with roofing material about three miles in. We thrilled at the sight of a beaver dam, which was flooding portions of the trail. We loved the blueberry bushes on the edge of a muskeg. And got yelled at by a few Stellar's Jays.

We made to the Eagle Glacier Cabin, but it was occupied so we backtracked down the trail to eat our dinner - pbJ with raisins and bananas - at the lake.

On the hike out we managed to walk right up on a black bear. He totally played it cool and even let me take his picture after we got some distance from him. He stood completely still chewing his cud, pretending he hadn't seen us. When we got completely around him, he turned and crouched in a defensive position. It had to be the day that I forgot to pack the bear spray. Mr. X reached for a couple stones that he carried for the next three miles in case the bear followed us. Once we had to scramble our neanderthal tools were abandoned.

We were treated to sights of a porcupine, kingfishers, swans and the calls of an owl.

Benjamin Island

In Mid-May we paddled out to Benjamin Island to see the sea lions. We hiked through the woods, surprised at how many wind falls there were and also surprised that someone had left a campfire smoldering. The breeze likely whipped it back up. I got a good chuckle at the new signs posted. It's never my intention to get close enough to a 500 lb animal to feed it. No thank you.

It was a Friday afternoon and so we had the island all to ourselves. A little creepy. A little satisfying. There was no one to make us feel guilty about how much time we spent watching the sea lions. I enjoyed seeing the little pups nursing and the teenagers harassing each other. Mr. X liked the lion with what appeared to be an entire salmon stuck to the side of his face...err looks like you got a little something right there.

There was enough of a cold breeze that we hiked back to east side of the island to eat our sandwiches. Mr. X was impressed with the new benches someone has made. On our paddle back to boulder beach we managed to scare both ourselves and a solitary sea lion. He was minding his own business, diving and playing. Unfortunately our timing was poor because he surfaced about 10 feet from us. We were glad he chose to re-dive immediately. Crossing back to the mainland we had to navigate through some fairly deep waters that also happen to go from protected to less protected. I'll admit the rolling waves made me a little sea-sick and I couldn't enjoy watching the water birds until we got out of the wind tunnel. Then I was pleased to see bonaparte gulls, scoters, and grebes.

Lena Point

We have a new neighbor who likes to go out Friday nights. The going out isn't a problem, but the coming home at 3 a.m. is. The fact that it's now light at that time means if I'm woken, I'm up for day.

One Saturday I needed to get out and Mr. X and I headed out for a short hike to Lena Point. We were glad to see John Mikesell's Eagle Scout project is still around. Mr. X says though that the base needed some rocks so he carefully scrambled down the cliff face and hauled a couple large rocks up to use as foot stools. He found some prehistoric insects living on the rocks. He was pleased. I was a little grossed out.

While working on rocks, we spotted a large male orca. And then two more. And then a pod of three with a calf. All told we watched a dozen orcas pass by the point.

Bonfires and wildlife cruises

After 3 weeks of steady rain (April was 272% above normal) we finally breathed a sigh of relief at the end of the month. We reveled in the spring weather over a campfire at Auke Rec with Mr. X's sister and brother-in-law.

We used the coals from the previous group and Mr. X had the fire roaring immediately. The pup learned to swim...begrudgingly. And I was a spooked by noises in the bushes -- while pack rafting two days earlier, we had seen our first bear of the season on this beach.

The next morning we took the Audubon nature cruise out to Berner's Bay. We were treated to black oyster-catchers, Bonaparte gulls, sea lions, seals, river otters, and humpback whales.

You should have seen us all leap out of our seat though when the captain spotted a moose on the shore. These animals are a rare find near Juneau. Bet you can't see her though in my picture -- she was far away.

The Chilkats were lovely and it was a great day to be on the water.

Fourth of July Weekend

Fishing - I woke up on the Fourth at 3 am and was exhausted plus it was drizzly so we had cancelled our picnic and fishing at Point Louisa. Then at about 11, I decided I did want to go fishing so we drove to Amalga harbor to catch this 31 inch chum. As you can see it's not a perfectly silver, but it'll do for curries - which is really all Mr. X wants anyway. We'd not taken the net so it was a little bit of a challenge landing the fish but we finally cornered the fish in shallower water and Mr. X flipped the fish onto the rocky shore. Not bad for 20 minutes of fishing.

On the way home my brother called and after dropping Mr. X off, I drove downtown to pick up our guest for the weekend.

At four we had Mr. X's brother-in-law join us for an indoor picnic. And then we braved the weather for a campfire on Point Louisa. We had intermittent rain, but lucked out and had a pod of four to six Orca whales swim by followed by a raft of eight to ten sea lions. The chums and reds are in and we also learned that we also have had a sizeable herring return to Auke bay (the herring fishery closed here in 1982); lots of good food for whales and sea lions and bears.

John enjoyed the s'mores - even though graham crackers never made it on my list, in the cart or to the park. 

Dan Moller Ridgeline - Saturday John suggested we hike on the ridgeline above the Dan Moller cabin. We'd been up there with John a couple years ago in winter and he wanted to see what it looked like in summer.

We got a nice view of Oliver Inlet and Seymour Canal. We might have to try that portage sometime in our rafts.

We scrambled our way up the hillside, I switched from rubber boots to my hiking shoes halfway up - when it got too steep for boots to be sensible.

We looked around the this ridge over to Eaglecrest ski area. It'd be fun to hike down that way some time.

Toward the Juneau Ice Field

Admiralty Island

Sunday morning Mr. X wanted to walk at Eagle Beach. We'd heard that there lots of fish and crab around, but we didn't see too much activity - except for fishing boats. We also spotted a bald eagle sitting in the water. I thought he might be in trouble, but it turned out he was just taking his Sunday bath.

Day 5 - 6: Tenakee Springs

At about 3:00 am Mr. X awoke to find me sitting over him clutching the bear spray. We again heard stamping outside and couldn't decide whether they were deer or bear. I peeked out of the tent but couldn't see anything save beach or trees. Mr. X wanted me to keep still so I wouldn't startle whatever was there. Eventually the noises disappeared and I opened the tent to confirm they had moved on. I turned back to Mr. X and he said, "so you want to go back to sleep?" And I said, "No! I just want to get out of here".

With only 10 miles to go, I hoped we could make it to Tenakee Springs by the afternoon. The wind and waves still looked a bit rough. We decided though to take it easy, try to relax (after that uncomfortable night) and appreciate our vacation. We stayed close to shore and thankfully avoided the bulk of the wind, making decent time. That didn't stop me from humming the song Master the Tempest is Raging, however.

Finally we spotted a cabin, then some more. Finally the main waterfront of Tenakee came into view. At long last the wind was pushing us the way we wanted to go. As we drifted past the ferry dock and then the float plane dock, a man stopped us giving us the low down on Tenakee:  "Uh, you know the ferry's been cancelled, right? You can camp over there by the boat harbor under that shelter. You know about the bath house hours? And the bakery is open." He also asked, "No bear trouble?" We just stared and he answered, "Well, guess not or you wouldn't be here."

We paddled to the boat harbor, hauled out - actually some guy came and helped me because I looked like I was about to fall in, packed the boats and headed to the "surplus area" in Tenakee. Under a metal shelter we found a fire ring, shelves (to hang gear), camp chairs, wood, etc.

We ate lunch and unpacked a few things and then decided to pull everything out and take advantage of the gusting wind to dry our wet gear. A little later we realized we should have talked to the harbor master and gotten his okay to set up in this location. He said it was fine, but I'm thinking we really should have checked with him first.

 

 Comfrey in front of the bathhouse - one of Mr. X's favorite plants. What fun to find it growing in Tenakee

 

 

Tenakee is a place of 50 people with no cars. People have hand carts or four-wheelers and the main drag is named Tenakee Trail.We walked into town and were warmly greeted by everyone. I went to the mercantile (well, their warehouse, the store is under construction) and got marshmallows for roasting, used the public toilet perched over the tide flats, checked out the book exchange and got info on breakfast the next day. We wandered out the forest trail looking for fresh water. We eventually found Tenakee River and a suspension bridge.

The wind was gusting, but the sun was also shining. We found a park bench and sat down to enjoy the warmth on our faces. Never mind that we were still wearing long johns and fleeces. 

In the evening we wandered up to the school. Mr. X thought it was funny that the school is labeled handicap accessible when you have to climb seven flights of stairs to get to it, tucked up on the hillside.

Mr. X took his turn at the hot springs. When the float plane landed in the evening, we headed into town to see if we could change our flight. Alaska Seaplanes took real good care of us. Because the ferry was cancelled and we were a day early, they ordered up a second plane to get us out when we wanted.

I suggested we go to grave island. When we walked around the beach we were astonished at the beauty that we found. This is why I came here. Look at that meadow and those emerald mountains. Don't you just want to go hike them?

Mr. X went to bed and I took my turn at the bath house. There are separate hours for men and women because this is a no-clothes hot spring. The water was a beautiful crystal clear and incredibly hot. I appreciated the little bit of a breeze coming from the window vents in the ceiling.

After a nice, restful sleep, we finally had a sunny morning. We packed up and headed into town to the bakery for breakfast. Mr. X had pan sized pancakes with sausage, I picked the biscuits and gravy and we shared a cinnamon roll and a rhubarb and strawberry tart. The Party-time Bakery was a lot of fun. We got to see a bunch of artwork that locals make, get introduced to small cruise ship passengers in for the morning and find out about the shamrock building which used to be the dance hall and movie theater. The restaurant owner/chef came out and asked us about pack-rafting. He told us about a guy last year that was doing a major trek and got hurt pack-rafting; a local at a remote cabin found him and ran him in to Tenakee to get him out and to a hospital.

Just steps away from the bakery is Alaska Seaplanes where we went to get checked in and weigh our luggage. A fishing party showed up; they also were disappointed about the ferry and were glad they could hop our plane. They put Mr. X and me in the back on the sling seat. I questioned whether it was because we were the lightweights; Mr. X theorized it was because we stank.

We had a beautiful flight over Freshwater Bay and Admiralty island - including Greens Creek Mine - back to Juneau. The ride was pretty good but we hit a few good bumps crossing Chatham Strait and I wasn't sure how well my breakfast would sit. We roared up and over ridge lines and soared over water before landing on the Juneau seaplane pond. A wonderful trip, but just as wonderful to be home with running water and clean clothes.

Day 4: Midnight Assault aka the Portage and Tenakee Inlet

 The GPS alarm sounded at 12:30 am and we emerged from a six hour slumber to hurriedly pack up our gear. When we hit the water at 1:20 am I was shocked to see the explosion of light and color in the inky water. We had enough light to make out the mountains, rocks and shoreline, but plenty of dark to appreciate the bioluminescence glittering off our paddles and the wakes of our boats. Suddenly a midnight assault seemed like the only way to do the trip.

We had five miles to go to the portage and wanted to hit the high tide at about 3:30 am. Fortunately, this area is shallow and the water was glassy. The reflections in the water were amazing.

We had a little trouble finding the last pond, simply because 1) we didn't choose to go right enough and 2) with only a 14 foot tide, the portage looked like the shore instead of a marsh. If you stay far to the right, you'll be able to see the break in the trees and find the route to the final pond. We meandered back and forth a little before we found where we needed to go.

Fortunately, we were able to guide or "line" our boats through most of the route, walking beside them. We carried them the last 50 feet and then with packs on our backs paddled across the last pond.

In the middle of the pond I heard a distinct, "Woof, woof". I asked Mr. X if he had heard it. As we landed Mr. X heard a "Woof, oof" and asked me what I thought it was and I said, "A bear, I'm gonna grab the bear spray. HEY BEAR!" But first I had to extricate myself from the ankle deep mud and make sure I still had my shoes. Meanwhile Mr. X is checking his back as he stands on shoreline lavishly spread with bear scat. "YIP-UP" hollered Mr. X and then we shouldered our packs and held our boats by their tube as we traversed the 300 foot portage to Tenakee Inlet, HEY BEAR-ing and YIP-UP-ing every once in a while to give the bear plenty of notice of where we were.

We were at the head of Tenakee Inlet by 4:01 am and finally were looking directly at the mountain Mr. X had dubbed "sugar loaf" that we had admired for the past two days. We also pulled out our no-see-um nets 'cause the midges were biting.

Mr. X then made friends with a group of sea lions who followed us for the next 17 miles.

The going was good and we were enjoying the flat water and falling tide. We followed the shoreline and quickly passed the island on which we planned to eat breakfast. I spotted sea stars that appeared to be more than two feet long. I also watched the languid swimming of jelly fish.  We paddled out to the middle of the inlet, catching the best currents, but finally at about 9 am, we needed to stop for breakfast and I heard water running - always a good idea to get water when you can. As we approached the shore, however, I spotted two rocks that weren't rocks, but instead a sow and 2nd year cub eating greens on the beach. I voted for not going ashore.

Eventually we found another beach on which to eat our blueberry oatmeal.

After another two hours of paddling, it had started to rain and I was getting a little cold. We stopped on a sandy spit and I was wishing and wishing that there was a remote cabin perched just around the corner. We had a lunch of sweet and sour pork and then filtered some water from a stream. A loon landed on the beach and shouted its haunting call across the water. 

By now the tide had turned and was rising. Along with the rain came a bit of wind and the waves were growing. I was starting to get frustrated with how challenging the travel was becoming, and a little scared of the waves. Mr. X took the lead and got me through some white caps. Eventually, I landed on a beach and suggested that we either camp or continue on foot. By now we'd been in "go" mode for more than14 hours and so Mr. X recommended that we skip dinner, and pitch the tent where we were. I agreed and we set to work.

Tenakee inlet has more wildlife than Port Frederick and although we were on the north side which is not known for lots of bears, it still is Chichagof island. We have heard of bears gnawing on packrafts so we dissembled the boats and used them as ground cloth under the tent. Mr. X stashed the bear canister with all food and scented items down the beach and then he climbed a tree and stashed our packs with the rest of our gear including dry suits. And then I turned around and realized that there was a bear trail on the beach and deer scat in the fragrant and soft pea plant around the tent.

By 5:30 we were bedded down and shortly later asleep. I got a nice nap and then the rest of the evening, I heard animal footsteps and crashing waves. At one point I was certain there were at least three deer outside, but later the snuffing and stomping on the beach I convinced myself were bears.